This Summer in Greece - The Highs, the Lows and What You Need to Know Before You Go

Another summer in Greece done and dusted. All the anticipation, the countdowns, the planning… now it’s a blur of memories, photos and notes I’ll be working into my guides. This trip was full of highs, but there were a few lows too. What struck me most this year is how Greece has its own rhythm - beautiful, chaotic, inspiring and unpredictable all at once. If you’re planning your own trip to Greece, here’s what I’d keep in mind.

The Highs

The food scene
Athens, Thessaloniki, the islands, every year the food scene gets better. Classic tavernas sit next to new restaurants that are really pushing things forward. One night you’re eating souvlakia on a street corner, the next you’re at Elliniko in Naxos (but only if you booked ahead, more on that later). It keeps Greece exciting, even for me, someone who goes back every year.

Greek design
Something I didn’t expect to love as much as I do is the design scene. Each year, I spot more small Greek brands popping up. The talent is staggering, graphic design, fashion, homewares, decor, food. They’re creative, fresh and inspiring, especially for me as a designer.

Wild Souls, Athens

The ferries
Yes, they’re chaotic. Yes, there are delays. But somehow the whole system works. Even with the Meltemi winds this year causing disruptions, the ferries kept moving. It’s a very Greek kind of chaos, kind like the Hunger Games, but it’s part of the summer rhythm and I kind of love it.

The calm after the organised chaos of Greek ferries

Accommodation surprises
What started as a low (a cancelled Glyfada stay thanks to pool maintenance in August, who does that!?) turned into a highlight. We moved to Ergon Bakehouse in Athens and apart from the fact I ate my body weight in breakfast pastries, I loved the stay. Booking last minute even came with a reduced rate. Sometimes the last-minute changes end up being the best memories.

Syros
The whole island was a massive highlight. It attracts Athenians for their summer holidays and you can see why. The centre has pastel Neoclassical architecture, perfectly restored and in Ano Syros you’ll find Cycladic sugar cube houses. Rich in culture, food and history, Syros completely won me over.

Vaporia, Syros

Work–life balance in August
One of the things I love about Greece is how strongly people hold onto their traditions and balance. Even in the peak of summer, when tourists are everywhere, Greeks take time off around the 15th of August - the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Shops close, restaurants shut and whole neighbourhoods in Athens (Exarhia, Petralona, Pagrati) are so quiet. On the day itself, everything closes. For travellers it can be inconvenient, but for me it’s also a high, a reminder of how deeply ingrained family and faith are in Greek life.

The Lows

The Meltemi winds
This is the big one. The winds in August are brutal and this year they were next level. Ferries stop, plans change and whole days can be lost. We had to cut our Milos trip short because ferries were cancelled on the day we were meant to leave. My advice: if you can, avoid the Cyclades in August. Go in June, early July, or September instead. September especially is wonderful, warm seas, fewer crowds and far less wind.

Restaurant bookings
The food scene is amazing, but so many places are impossible without a booking. Elliniko in Naxos is one example. If you have your heart set on a restaurant, book it before you even arrive. This is exactly the kind of detail I include in my guides, so you don’t miss out.

Tipping
This one is relatively new, I have seen this slowly happen over the last few years. Traditionally in Greece, you’d leave some coins or small notes if service was good. This year I noticed more card machines prompting for a percentage tip. It’s not part of Greek culture and I find it awkward. I actually had a waiter ask me to tip him more, very awkward.

August closures in Athens
I’ve included this as both a high and a low because it’s such an important part of Greece. Faith and culture are deeply ingrained and I love that even in peak season Greeks take time off around the 15th of August (the Dormition of the Virgin Mary). It shows how strongly they hold onto tradition and religion, and that’s something I respect.

But as a traveller, you need to be aware. The week leading up to the 15th sees many restaurants, cafés and stores close. Walking through foodie neighbourhoods, most places were shut. On the day itself, almost all shops in Athens close their doors, no Zara no pharmacy, nothing. If you’re travelling then, plan around it so you’re not caught off guard.

Final Thoughts

The highs far outweighed the lows, but every trip reminds me that Greece has its own rhythm. It’s beautiful, chaotic, inspiring and unpredictable all at once.

If you’re planning your own trip:

• Avoid August in the Cyclades

• Book restaurants in advance

• Expect ferry chaos, but know the system works

• Always leave space for bakery breakfasts

• And if you’re in Athens mid-August, be ready for closures around the 15th

And if you want the shortcut to my favourites, the tavernas, hotels and hidden spots that make each trip special, that’s exactly what my curated travel guides are for.