One Day in Athens: The Places I Always Take Friends

I love playing tour guide in Athens, especially when some of our best friends are visiting. On this trip, they had just one day and one night before we all headed off to Sifnos for our daughter’s wedding, so I knew I had to make that short window count. I wanted to give them a snapshot of my Athens: not just the sights, but the feeling of the city. Something relaxed, a little cultural and with good food & drink at the end.

Here’s what we did.

Our friends had just landed from Melbourne. They were tired but keen to go. We took a casual walk through the city, I showed them some of my favourite streets and stores. Athens is so walkable and there’s always something happening. We wandered down Ermou, past koulouria stalls and street corn sizzling, the smell of coffee everywhere. They were taking it all in. I was gently reminded we didn’t have time to stop and shop. We were on a mission.

1. Syntagma

First up Syntagma Square. This is a must for me and not just because it’s central, but because it’s personal. I have baby photos here with my parents and my uncle Anesti, who was a Tsolias (one of the guards in traditional uniform).

The Evzones (or Tsolias) stand guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, just outside Parliament. Their uniforms are full of symbolism - the foustanella with 400 pleats representing the years under Ottoman rule and the tsarouhia, those heavy leather clogs with the pom-poms aren’t just decorative. Each pair weighs over a kilo and was designed to make a loud sound, originally to mimic horses and distract or intimidate during battle. The nails underneath also form a small cross, said to protect the soldier wearing them. Greeks are very religious.

If you time it right, you can see the changing of the guard, which are slow choreographed movements that are strangely moving. I always love bringing friends here, they get the cultural moment and I get to share something that means a lot to me.

Love walking in Kolonaki and getting surprise views of the Acropolis

2. Kolonaki & Mount Lycabettus

From there, we walked toward Kolonaki, one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Athens. If I lived in Athens this is where you would find me. Classic mid-century modern apartments, beautiful balconies, locals with style and a good mix of cafes, boutiques and little specialty stores.

We made a quick stop at a small shop (someone had forgotten their board shorts - you know who you are), then kept walking up toward the funicular. It’s a quick trip, but the view at the top of Mount Lycabettus is so worth it.

Athens stretches out in every direction, white buildings, terrazzo rooftops and the Acropolis right in the centre like a postcard. We took our time, snapped too many photos and walked down the steps back into the city, ready for an afternoon refresh.

This view from Lycabettus always takes my breath away, no matter how many times I’ve seen it

3. The Clumsies

After a quick break at the hotel for some R&R, it was cocktail time. And for Athens first timers, you know there’s only one place for that (well, there are plenty, but for me there’s only one). The Clumsies.

It’s ranked among the world’s best bars, but it still feels casual and very Athenian. You can pop into for one drink, or stay the whole night, it is a vibe!

The cocktails here are next-level. The award winning Aegean Negroni is not for the faint-hearted - it practically grows hairs on your chest. My favourite is the “Greek Salad cocktail”, I am sure it is named something else but it should be called this instead. I don’t know how they do, but it somehow captures the essence of a Greek salad, right down to yeast on the glass to make you taste the bread. I am serious! Our friends couldn’t decide, so they went for the paddles with four different cocktails. Always a hit.

The Clumsies is one of those places I take people every time I’m in Athens. Actually, who am I kidding - I go there myself every trip.

4. Dinner at Linou Soumpasis & Sia

That night, we met with our other friends for dinner at Linou Soumpasis & Sia, my go-to restaurant in Athens. I’d booked it before we even left Melbourne. It used to fly under the radar, a bit of a secret, but not anymore.

The space was once a candle factory and they’ve kept that tradition alive, tall, thin candles flickering on every table. But what is so special with this place, is the food. The bread is a must, the tarama is creamy and that perfect balance of salty and tangy, the corn ribs are addictive… and the roast chicken with potatoes? Easily one of my favourite things to eat in Athens.

The wine list is mostly local. I’ll be honest, I’m a simple summer rosé girl (yes, with ice, don’t judge). But even I appreciate how thoughtful the selection is. The perfect spot enjoy the warmth of the night, the cicadas buzzing in the background, good food, great friends and wine what more could you ask for.

It was a short day, but it felt like enough. That’s what I love about Athens - you don’t need a long to feel something. Just one well-spent day and a few good stops along the way.

If you’re planning your own trip, you’ll find all my favourite Athens restaurants, neighbourhoods and insider tips in my Athens Guide linked here.

One of my favoutire meals and places to have that meal!