This summer in Greece took me from Thessaloniki to Athens, Paros, Koufonisia, Mykonos, Tinos, Sifnos and back to Athens again. Five weeks of Greek island hopping, incredible food, beautiful places and a few things that surprised along the way!
I just realised I hadn't done my annual Greece summer recap! How time flies. I've been back for a couple of months now and somehow completely missed it.
It sounds like a lot when I put it on paper, but somehow we always make it work!
I was also working on my Greece travel guides throughout the trip, revisiting old favourites, trying new restaurants and checking out hotels to make sure all my recommendations were fresh and up to date. So there was plenty of work mixed in with the holiday!
Anyway, here's my honest recap of five weeks in Greece. The highlights, the disappointments and a few moments I'll never forget.
THESSALONIKI
Thessaloniki is where I was born, so visiting is always about family. Catching up with everyone, a bit of shopping, some sightseeing and generally just enjoying being back home.
I always prefer staying in or around Aristotelous Square. I love the buzz, the proximity to the waterfront and having everything within walking distance. It's such a great part of the city to base yourself.
I stayed at Electra Palace, right on the square, which is a fantastic location.
ATHENS: A LITTLE SOLO TIME
Where Thessaloniki is my roots, Athens is my love.
This year I spent a few days in Athens on my own, staying at Electra Rhythm, somewhere I've stayed several times before.
I had quite a bit to do for my updated Athens Guide, but I also loved having the freedom to wander around the city at my own pace.
One afternoon I decided to walk to Kennedy Wine Bar. Now, I have a genuine problem confusing left and right, so even with Google Maps directing me, I somehow ended up walking along Panepistimiou towards Exarcheia instead of Monastiraki. Don’t ask me how!
I eventually managed to get myself back in the general direction, missed Kennedy AGAIN and ended up at Gamay instead. Which turned out to be lovely! Yes it is a wine bar and no I didn’t have wine, but I had a really good aperol spritz.
The highlight of that little adventure was walking past Syntagma at golden hour. Athens looked incredible, the light, the buildings, the atmosphere. I was so happy just walking around taking it all in.
PAROS: AS BEAUTIFUL AS EVER, BUT DEFINITELY BUSIER
I think this was my fourth or fifth visit to Paros. It's also my most requested travel guide, so there was plenty of work to do here!
I started the trip on my own, stayed at Mazee, a short walk from Naoussa, which was a great base.
What I love about Paros, particularly Naoussa, is how incredibly photogenic it is. You literally feel like you're walking through an Instagram highlight reel. The most scenic harbour, the whitewashed houses, bougainvillea, little laneways and beautiful shops. There's a photo opportunity around every corner.
But one thing I noticed this year was just how busy it had become. There was a real mix of people and you can certainly feel the island changing.
One of my favourite things to do is take the little boat from Naoussa port to Kolymbithres Beach. It's about a 15-minute ride and I never get tired of seeing those enormous boulders against the turquoise water.
I booked sunbeds at Anemos Beach Club and spent the day swimming and relaxing. That's my idea of a perfect Greek summer day.
JK joined me in Paros and we had a lovely dinner at Siparos, after seeing the most incredible sunset nearby.
We also spent time exploring the villages, which are some of the prettiest in the Cyclades.
We managed a day-trip to Antiparos, which I highly recommend. That is a blogpost all of its own.
KOUFONISIA: MY BIGGEST HIGHLIGHT
OMG, Koufonisia!
We visited for a day last year and loved it so much that we knew we had to come back for longer. And I'm so glad we did.
The beaches are INSANE! Some of the most beautiful water I've seen anywhere in Greece. We spent our days swimming, walking between beaches and enjoying the slower pace of the island. I have said it before and I will say it again. It was the rewiring my nervous system needed after the stress months I had with my interiors work.
For such a small island, the food scene was excellent. There aren't hundreds of restaurants to choose from, but we had some wonderful meals.
And then there was Stou Lolou.
This was probably one of my favourite nights of the entire trip.
We were sitting outside under the stars, festoon lights everywhere, enjoying mezedes and ouzo. A band was playing, people were dancing and singing and I actually had tears in my eyes.
I can't explain it properly, but it was one of those moments when you feel so incredibly happy to be exactly where you are.
While there we managed day trip to Schinoussa, one of the Small Cyclades islands.
Google Maps told us it was a brisk walk from the port to the main village. What it conveniently forgot to mention was the approximately 350 million steps uphill in the middle of summer!
We eventually made it, explored the village and stopped for a photo at the Instagram-famous Chara Kafenion.
The lowlight came when we returned to the port to find our ferry was running two hours late. But we found a lovely little beach around the corner and spent the afternoon swimming while we waited.
Not the worst way to spend a couple of hours!
Koufonisia was everything I hoped it would be and more. I absolutely loved it.
MYKONOS: I THINK OUR RELATIONSHIP IS CHANGING
I hadn't been to Mykonos for a couple of years and I was really looking forward to returning.
We stayed in Platis Gialos at a hotel we hadn't tried before, the Argo which I ended up loving.
This time, though, we wanted to experience a different side of Mykonos.
We visited Rizes, drove out to Lia Beach, explored Ano Mera and generally tried to find a more traditional, authentic Mykonos.
And we did find some lovely places.
But we eventually came to the conclusion that if you're going to Mykonos, you have to accept Mykonos for who she has become. You either go with it or go home!
There are still things I absolutely love about the island. Like watching the sunset from Little Venice, something that makes me ridiculously happy. Something I don't think I'll ever tire of it.
But the pretentiousness is becoming too much for me.
Some of the people and the attitudes are really off-putting. Mykonos used to be an island I visited every single year, so it actually makes me a little sad to say I think I'll be not visiting as oftern.
And another thing. What is going on with those enormous black people movers?
Seriously! The roads on Mykonos are barely wide enough for two small cars, let alone these massive vehicles everywhere. It's ridiculous.
I still love Mykonos, but I don't love everything she’s become.
TINOS: FOOD, VILLAGES AND A VERY SPECIAL EXPERIENCE
Tinos was another highlight, particularly for the food, architecture and villages.
There's so much to appreciate here. Beautiful traditional villages, incredible stonework, lovely accommodation, see Xinara House review Here, and some seriously good food.
One of the most meaningful experiences of our trip was attending a service at Panagia Evangelistria, the famous church of the Virgin Mary in Tinos.
It's one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Greece, known for its miraculous icon. Being able to attend a service was incredibly special, I felt very fortunate to be there.
The other thing I loved about Tinos were the Panigiria. The whole island coming together in villages eating, dancing the night away.
Now, let’s talk beaches.
I know some people love the beaches on Tinos, but personally, I wasn't particularly impressed. If you're planning a Greek island holiday mainly for swimming and beaches, I think there are better islands to choose from.
And the biggest lowlight was without a shadow of a doubt THE WIND!
I know all about the meltemi, but this was next level. The wind was literally moving us around and made doing things difficult, especially going to the beach.
I loved Tinos for so many reasons, but those winds really tested my patience.
SIFNOS: IT FELT LIKE COMING HOME
I was SO happy to be back in Sifnos.
I absolutely love this island and returning always feels like coming home.
We had the most amazing evening at Loggia.
Yes, I know it's all over social media, I’ve already been bagged about it, but I can tell you it deserves the attention.
The location, the views, the atmosphere and watching the light change as the sun went down. Sitting there with a crisp Greek wine, taking it all in, was one of those moments I wished could last a little longer.
Another highlight was our day at Palmira in Platis Gialos. A very simple day.
We booked a couple of armchairs, with absolutely no shade I might add, and spent the day doing very little.
Swim, drink, eat, swim again. Repeat!
Sometimes those are the best days.
Sifnos remains one of my favourite Greek islands. The food, the villages, the beaches and the whole atmosphere keep bringing me back.
And I already can't wait to return.
ATHENS: ONE LAST STOP BEFORE HOME
We finished our trip with a few more days in Athens, this time with JK.
And if there's one thing I want to talk about, is Athens the food and drink scene. Athens is absolutely killing it!
We had a long list of restaurants and bars to visit for the updated Athens Guide and I can genuinely say we enjoyed everywhere we went.
Of course, a couple of places were particular favourites, but what impressed me was the overall standard. From traditional tavernas to newer more current restaurants, the food, the interiors, the atmosphere and the service were excellent.
Athens has become one of my favourite cities for eating out and I really don't think it gets enough credit for it.
We spent our final days walking, exploring, eating and drinking, trying to fit in as much as possible before heading home.
And the biggest lowlight of Athens?
Having to leave!
SO, WHAT DID I THINK OF GREECE THIS SUMMER?
Five weeks, a lot of kilometres, some incredible experiences and plenty of memories.
Every year I come home saying I might slow down a little next time, and every year I find myself planning another trip that's just as busy!
And now, of course, I'm already thinking about Greece 2027!
If you're planning your own Greek summer, I've put together detailed travel guides for Athens, Sifnos, Milos, Naxos and Folegandros, all based on places I've personally visited and experienced. You'll find them in my She Knows Greece shop.
And yes, the Paros Guide is finally on its way!
